2 pounds Þsh for smoking (trout, salmon, blueÞsh, whiteÞsh, tuna-any available variety)

brine for soaking:
2 quarts water
1/2 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup kosher salt
Mustard Dill Sauce

Well-wrapped and refrigerated, smoked Þsh will keep for about two weeks because of the salting. It also can be frozen, so it is a good idea to do a large batch at one time-when you can afford the time. Mustard Dill Sauce is a nice counterpoint to the robust flavor of smoked tuna, blueÞsh, and salmon.

Combine water, brown sugar, and salt. Soak Þsh in a single layer in the brine overnight in the refrigerator. The Þsh must be completely covered by the solution. When you are ready to smoke, remove Þsh and air-dry on a rack until there is no more dripping, about 30 minutes. Prepare a hickory, fruitwood, or mesquite Þre in a kettle smoker, and leave the vents open so it does not burn too hot. Replenish wood supply as needed to keep the smoke going. Arrange Þsh on the rack, with the largest pieces closest to the heat source. Have water at hand in a spray bottle to squirt the Þre if it bursts into flame. Fillets, salmon and tuna steaks, and boned and butterflied trout will take about 3 hours to smoke. The Þsh should be Þrm to the touch and golden brown, cooked but still moist inside. Just as with regular Þsh cookery, it is ready when it is opaque all the way through. Serve with Mustard Dill Sauce.

Mustard Dill Sauce

4 tablespoons Pommery mustard (or other dark, whole-seed mustard)
1 teaspoon ground mustard powder
4 teaspoons sugar
2 tablespoons white vinegar
1/3 cup olive oil
3 tablespoons fresh dill, chopped

In a small, deep bowl, mix the wet and dry mustards together, then add the sugar and vinegar. With a wire whisk, slowly beat in the oil until the mixture forms a thick emulsion. Stir in the chopped dill. Makes 3/4 cup.

2 eggs
1 cup milk
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 cup sugar
3/4 cup yellow cornmeal
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups fresh raspberries
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

Preheat oven to 400°F. Spray or lightly grease 12 mufÞn cups, 2 1/2 inches in diameter. In a medium bowl, beat the eggs, milk, and vanilla together until frothy. In a large bowl, stir together the flour, sugar, cornmeal, baking powder, and salt. With the back of a spoon, make a well in the center of the dry mixture. In a small bowl, gently toss the raspberries with 2 tablespoons of the flour mixture until lightly coated. Pour the egg-milk mixture and the melted butter into the remaining flour mixture. Stir quickly, with just 10 or 15 strokes to blend; the batter will be slightly lumpy. Spoon about 2 tablespoons of batter into each prepared mufÞn cup. Working quickly, scatter six or eight floured raspberries in each cup. Spoon the remaining batter over the top of each of the mufÞns, dividing equally. Bake for about 15 minutes, or until the mufÞns are golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

Cook's Notes

Selecting: Dull, lackluster raspberries are over the hill. Overripe berries sink in the container. Inspect the bottoms of the containers for moisture stains, which indicate that the berries have been squashed or have molded. A few moldy berries will taint the flavor of the entire basket.

Freezing: Raspberries freeze very well and will keep for a year at 0°F or less. For individual frozen berries, spread raspberries in a single layer on jelly-roll pans, and place in freezer until hard, usually 1 or 2 hours. Transfer the fruit to rigid freezer containers or heavy-duty freezer bags. If it doesnÕt matter if they all stick together, berries can also be frozen directly in freezer containers, with or without sugar or syrup. To freeze with sugar, use 3/4 cup superÞne sugar to 1 quart of berries, stirring the berries gently on a wide platter. Let stand until sugar partly dissolves, then pack. To freeze with syrup, use a solution of 2 1/2 cups sugar to each 2 cups chilled water. Pack berries in containers, cover with the syrup, cover with lid, label, date, and freeze.